Euro-Skiing – The Other Side of the Story
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There’s no doubt that skiing in Europe often involves the pleasures of stopping at a sun-browned chalet for a gourmet lunch, but it also means that one may have the opportunity to ski some really big mountains too. Last Saturday, the skies cleared exposing several inches of fresh new snow on the mountains of Zermatt and with little hesitation, we decided to make first tracks on the Stockhorn glacier – an hour hike from the top of the Triftji lift station. Maybe it had to do with the fact that we were three friends who have known each other for over twenty years or simply a result of the incredible conditions, but it was definitely one of the best days I’ve ever had. A great experience all around!
The concept of stopping every few runs for a warm drink or a bite to eat often seems a bit confusing for most Americans who are visiting a European ski resort for the first time. But as their days pass, they eventually adapt to the lifestyle of the locals. My clients unanimously termed this “Euro-Skiing” and I must say that it is quite a fun way to spend an afternoon in the mountains. Here we are at Chez Vrony in Zermatt, Switzerland – an incredible fine dining experience that is rarely matched in the US.
I find one of the most fundamental differences between Europe and the US to be with the programs that are available for kids. For example, in Zermatt, kids under 10 years of age ski for free and the schools offer great classes for a wide range of abilities. What’s more is that they have quite elaborate award ceremonies at the end of the week. Here are some clients’ children – all smiles at the podium. Truly tons of fun to watch them in their moment of glory.
It’s a cold February here in the Alps with temperatures dipping below -20 C. But the skies have been clear, offering beautiful views of the surrounding mountains. This week, I’m joined by an American couple who are living in Morges, Switzerland. We had a fantastic day skiing into Cervina, Italy.
The Winter Wildlands Alliance, which created the series, eventually agreed to come, so on Wednesday, January 13, the Backcountry Film Fest lands in Santa Barbara, bringing a blend of eco-ethics and powdery inspiration to the Victoria Hall Theater. Among the highlights are: Signatures by the Colorado-Japan team of 
The Schwartztor is typically skied at the conclusion of the Haute Route, the week-long tour between Chamonix and Zermatt, but like many places in the Alps, one can easily access it in a single day for an incredible off-piste experience.
classic French tour. But if I had to define one distinguishing difference between the two places, it would have to include the unique opportunity to crawl through the ice cave at the toe of the Gorner Glacier. Over the years, a path has been made where one can slide through a tunnel of ice no taller than three meters high. You may get your trousers a bit dirty, but it’s well worth the diversion.
The tour starts with a hair-raising walk down a knife-edged arete from the top of the station to a plateau where you can put on your skis. It’s really not that bad of a descent, but if one were to slip, it would most likely be a fatal fall down the 50 degree rocky slope. And if you somehow survived that, you’d then have to figure out how to escape the bergschrund directly below. Luckily, there is a series of fixed ropes. Once you get to the plateau, it’s an easy ski to the Geant glacial valley below, which then follows the Glacier du Tacul and ultimately leads to the Mer de Glace, France’s largest glacier. But it’s best not to be too complacent with the easy turns and beautiful views as what may look to be a mere bump in the snow could quite possibly be the top of an icy (and inescapable) serac. The route from here on seems endless and one soon loses sight of the Aiguille du Midi, now capturing views of what will someday end up in those plastic Evian bottles we find in the supermarket. I stop to grab a handful straight from the source. Another few hundred meters down, I stop for a quick lunch. It’s truly a beautiful spot and despite feeling “alone”, I soon come to the realization that I’m merely “on my own”. A text message comes in wishing me a “Happy Birthday”.
Themocracy